Hi crafters, I'm back with another easy tutorial.
My daughter has been complaining that her expensive colored pencils keep breaking because they get shaken up in her pencil case. So I found a solution. A roll up pencil case holds her pencils tightly and lessens the chance of the lead breaking. This project was inspired by the roll up makeup brush case she has. My daughter loves this so much, it's very portable and makes sure her pencil crayons are safe.
So if you'd like to know how to make one for yourself, keep reading. :)
Here are the measurements that I used;
Outer fabric 16" x 12"
Lining fabric 16" x 12"
Pencil pocket fabric 16" x 10"
Fusible batting 15.5" x 11.5" (optional)
Let's start with the pencil pockets.
(16"x10") Fold in half, length wise with the wrong sides together.
Top stitch the fold and mark your pencil pockets. (size to your liking)
Note: make sure you leave seam allowance at the sides.
Now, grab your lining fabric (16"x12") and pin your pencil pockets at the bottom. Skip the first line that you marked, instead start from the second line. Sew a straight stitch along your lines, from the top of the pocket to the bottom. Don't forget to back stitch at the top.
Grab your ribbon/or bias/or the tie you made, and pin them on the side of the lining and sew to secure.
Get your fusible batting and iron it onto the back of your outer fabric. Then get your lining and make sure not to sew down your ribbon.
Place your outer fabric on to the lining fabric right sides together and pin. Sew around the sides but leave at least 3 or 4-inches open for turning later.
Snip the four corners, be careful not to cut over your stitch line. Then, turn inside out through the opening, iron, and top stitch all around the sides.
To make a flap. Fold the top to cover the space above the pencil pockets and give a good press.
In the second picture, I placed a few colored pencils to make sure I have at least a half an inch of space between the pencil and the fold.
Pin and top stitch about 1/4-inch from the top.
You are finish!
Put in all your colored pencils, roll-up it up and tie your bow.
I love this. You can make one like this for make-up brushes, knitting sticks, sewing stuff, and so on. :)
I just made an oven mitt or potholder last month, and just had time to post it today. This is my husband's favorite oven mitt to use than the long arm oven mitts. This project is so perfect for someone that is new to sewing and for those who have extra fabric scraps (like me) that you don't know what to do with.
If you'd like to make this project... let's get started! :)
You will need:
Use the CD as a base to make your ends perfectly symmetrical as shown. One long 8" oval will be the pattern for the main body, the 6" oval will be for the pockets. Cut out your pattern.
Cut the fabrics, batting and Insul-bright batting using your pattern.
2 pcs. of short oval fabric
2 pcs. of long oval fabric (Outer and Lining fabrics)
2 pcs. of short oval batting
1 pc. of long oval batting
1 pc. of long oval insul-bright batting
Grab all the long oval shapes;
1. Outer fabric right side down
2. Insul-Bright batting right side down (make sure the shiny part is facing right side down)
4. Lining fabric right side up
You can quilt them if you would like.
Set aside for later.
Now, get all the short oval shapes;
Fabric right side down, then put the batting on top of it, fold in half, and press. Do the same thing to the other oval shape.
This is optional. You can leave them like that without bias and top stitch each straight sides. But, I chose to put bias on each side to make it look prettier. :)
Get the long oval and put the two pockets on each end of the main body.
Pin them together and stitch about 1/4-inch all around the oval to secure.
Then, find the middle of the oval and stitch down straight. This way it wont separate the two fabrics when it's bent, but if you quilted the main body you don't have to do this.
The last thing you have to do is to attach the bias all around the main body and you are done. Yay! :)
Hello Crafters! Happy New Year to all! I hope you guys had a great holiday.
Here's my first tutorial for 2016, how to make a Rag Quilt. :)
If you are like me, and love handmade quilts but you don't want to make them yourself because it's a lot of work and time consuming, rag quilt are the best and more simple thing to make for yourself or for someone else. It is so easy to make and the only time consuming part of this project is clipping the seams if you are going to make a big quilt like mine.
Here's my first Rag Quilt that I made for my daughter and I'm pretty happy with the results. It's so cuddly and so soft. My husband loves it too and he wants me to make one for our bed.
My mom made two rag quilts a long time ago out of old denim fabric and corduroy fabric. I think I'm going to try the denim for my next rag quilt project, perfect to use for camping. But for this quilt that I am going to show you I used flannel fabric.
Let's get started! :)
Materials you will need:
Iron and Ironing board
Rotary cutter and Gridded cutting mat
First, decide how many different patterns of fabric you would like to use and how big you want your quilt. My daughter picked these five beautiful different patterns of fabrics. She likes to have four different prints of fabrics on the front and one print for the back of the quilt. But, you could use the same pattern on the back and the front if you like.
For the middle layer I'm using flannel as well (plain light color), but you could use a cotton batting.
Before you start your rag quilt; Do NOT wash the fabric before use, if you are using flannel fabric.
Iron all your fabrics before cutting. I cut out 8" squares of fabric for the front and back fabric, and 6" squares for the middle layer, but you can cut your middle layer the same size as your front and back fabric, but I prefer a smaller square in the middle.
Once you cut all your squares, its time to make the square sandwich. Take your backing piece right side down, then lay the middle layer on top of it, then take your top piece right side up. You don't have to pin them together , but you can if you want to. Do this all your square fabrics.
After you sandwiched all you squares, sew an "X" from corner to corner.
To save you some time and thread, sew from one corner diagonally down to the other corner of each square and don't stop sewing. Do a chain stitch by placing the corner of the next square and continue sewing. You will end up with a long chain of squares. Cut the thread in between each squares and do the same thing again, sew a diagonal line in opposite direction. You will making a X in each squares.
Once you have all of your squares quilted, I suggest to either get on the floor or go to the table that has a really large space to lay out all your squares in rows how you want them.
You want your seams to be on the top. Take the first 2 squares and put the wrong sides together and pin, and continue with the remaining squares until the row is complete, and sew from the top to the bottom with a 1" seam allowance. Make sure all seams are facing the same way.
This is what my first row looked like, and continue doing this until you finish all your rows. Remember, your rows will be smaller when you're done stitching them together due to the seam allowance.
Now, once you have all your rows sewn, go back on to the floor or table and lay out all your rows. To pin the rows together, match the seams, press one seam towards to the left and one seam to towards to the right and pin and sew with 1" seams. You will be sewing through a lot of layers, so go slowly.
After you have sewn all the rows together, sew a 1" seam around the entire quilt. When you reach the corner keep the needle in the down position, rotate the quilt 90 degrees and continue sewing until you've sew the entire quilt. Don't forget to back stitch from the beginning to finish.
It's time to snip all seams. Get as close to the seam as possible without snipping through it. But, if you accidentally cut the stitches it is easy to fix by sewing over your mistake. Warning, this is time consuming part if you are making big rag quilt like mine. It took me almost three hours to snip all the seams.
You're almost done. This is what your rag quilt should look like before washing, front and back. All seams are sniped on one side and the other side has the traditional quilt look (it's hard to see on the picture because I used one pattern fabric).
The last thing you have to do is wash and dry your quilt. If you made a larger quilt like mine I recommended that wash and dry your quilt at the commercial laundromat.
I made this messenger bag for my son last summer before our family summer trip. Every time we're going out he loves having his bag around his shoulder with a few toys inside.
This is my second messenger bag I made for him. The first one was two years ago, it was smaller and he needed something a little bit bigger, so I decided to make another one for him.
Now, I've finally got around to sharing the pattern and show you how I made it.
First, decide what kind of fabric you are going to use. I used a medium weight fabric for the outside and lining. You can make the bag with or without interfacing. So, the interfacing is an optional.
Ok, let get started! :)
Cut all the fabric pieces, and here's the measurements that I used:
(I used 1/2" seam allowance on this project).
Two 10" x 13" pieces for outside of the bag
Two 10" x 13" pieces for the bag lining
Two 10" x 13" pieces of Interfacing
One 8" x 12" piece for the flap
One 8" x 12" piece for the flap lining
One 8" x 12" piece of Interfacing
One 8" x 11" piece for the pocket inside the bag
One 4" x 34" piece for the strap
One 4" x 3" piece for the strap
Get your outer fabric, lining fabric, and Interfacing (10" x 13").
Then, cut the two corners at the bottom by 2" x 2".
Iron your iron-on-interfacing to the outer fabrics on the wrong side, then face the right sides of the outer fabrics together.
Pin them together and stitch the two sides and the bottom.
Now, open the two corners on the bottom and match the side seams, pin and stitch across.
(The pictures above are my pocket measurements 10" x 11", but I reduced to 8" x 11" because it was too big for the bag).
Ok, for the pocket (8" x 11"): Fold in half, pin and stitch the sides and bottom, but leave at least a 3" gap so you can turn it inside out.
Turn inside out and press. Attach the pocket to one of the pieces of lining, pin and stitch the sides, bottom, and the middle to create two pockets.
You can put as many pocket as you want, but for my son he just needs two.
Get the two lining fabrics, right face together. Pin and stitch the two sides and bottom but leave at least a 4" gap so you can turn it inside out later.
Just like you did for the outer bag, match the side seams, pin and stitch across on both corners.
Assembling the Rectangle Ring and Tri-Glides Slide to the straps
Get your 3" strap and the rectangle ring.
Center loop with ring inside.
Get your 34" strap and the Tri-Glider Slide.
Take the end of the strap and loop through the center of your slider.
Tuck the end at least half an inch on itself.
Stitch to secure.
Take the other end of the strap and thread it through the ring.
Then, loop it back over the other side of the slider and pull.
Loop it up and in one end of the slider.
It should look like the third picture.
Turn the bag right side out through the hole you left in the lining.
Once the bag is pulled out, stitch the hole in the lining close. Tuck the lining inside the bag.
This is the Halloween costume I made for my niece. Oddly enough, she didn't want to be Elsa (from Disney's "Frozen") which I originally asked her if she wanted to be, she said she wanted to be a ghost instead. Fair enough, and it's way easier to make and cheaper too.
I would like to share with you guys how I made this ghost costume. Lets get started! :)
Materials you will need:
White fabric or an old bed sheet that you don't need it anymore.
Black permanent marker or fabric marker
Open the fabric. Pin and sew for the body shape, keeping it loose for a flowing effect.
Then, cut or tear the fabric into strips (but not past the stitch).
For the head;
I measured from one of her ears to the other, which measured to be about 10.5" but I added 1.5". Then, from the top of her head to her shoulder measured to be about 12" and I added 6".
So, the measurements for the head over all is 12" x 18".
(Optional: For the bottom where it rests on the shoulders, you can eye ball it, but your end shape should look like Darth Vader helmet or a bell. I hope I didn't confuse you. )
Now, get two pieces of fabric and cut. I cut the top like a V shape 2" down. Pin and sew along the sides (not the bottom or the V at the top).
With the V shape that I cut, open it up and match the two seams. Pin and sew.
It should look like this on the top.
Then, try the mask on and find where the eyes are and mark it. Make sure not they close their eyes and don't poke them too hard. :)
Make an oval shape for the eyes that are big enough to see through and make sure you only cut one the front of the mask.
Turn your mask right side out and slip a piece of paper inside. Use a black marker (or fabric markers are best, since sharpies run when washed) and trace around the eyes to give it a more defined and cartoony look. Then, draw any mouth and nose shape you'd like.
When you have small kids it's kind of hard to keep the inside of your car tidy. Books, toys, wipes.... a lot of stuff all over the back seat, so, I have been looking for a car organizer for quite awhile now, and I couldn't find something that was simple and functional.
So, I decided to make my own car organizer, and I would like to share with you how I made it.
Lets get started!
(I added one inch to the dimensions for seam allowance).
Main body of the caddy - cut two 24" x 19"
Top pocket - cut one 20" x 25"
Bottom pocket - cut one 21" x 27"
Iron on Interfacing - cut one 23.5" x 28.5" (if you have heavy fabric you can skip interfacing, your choice)
For the Elastic - cut one 13" long
Nylon Webbing - cut one 36" long, one 4" for the D ring, and one 12" long
I cut two 24" x 19" for my main fabric.
Then, on one of my main fabric pieces I ironed on my Interfacing where I 'm going to attach my pockets later .(not pictured, and this step is optional)
Then, plan your own organizer caddy. Mine, I like to have two big pockets on top for books, and on the bottom three pockets for wipes and toys.
On the top, I curved the corners using a CD, pen and scissors.
I started to do the bottom pockets first. Cut 21" x 27". Fold wrong side together length wise and press.
For my wipes pocket I liked kind of boxy corners, again this is optional.
Measure and mark the first line 2" away from the raw edge, then, for the second line mark 5" away from the first line.
Fold and pin along these lines. Now it should be folded under at the back of the pocket.
Carefully topstitch a line 1/8" from the folded edge, and also do so on the other line.
1. Find the center of the pocket from where the elastic begins to the edge of the fabric and mark it down.
2. Pull the elastic and stretch until you reach the edge of the fabric and pin the center (that you marked down).
3. Position the pockets to the main fabric, pin and stitch straight lines down to create three pockets.
4. Pin the two edges and the bottom and stitch.
For my top pockets. Fold the 20" x 25" rectangle piece in half length wise right face, pin and stitch a straight line on the bottom, then, turn it inside out and press.
Now that all the pockets and straps are attached, get the other main body fabric piece, right face together. Pin the edges and stitch a straight line, but leave at least 6" so you can turn it right side out.
I snipped the top of my curved corners and snipped the two corners on the bottom. I turned it right side out carefully and gave it a good press. Top stitch the opening and you're done!
All I have left to do is put my handmade car organizer on the back of the car seat and fill it with stuff for my little fella.
This is so perfect for our road trip this summer!
I am so please with the results, and I plan to make another one.
Thanks for stopping by... and happy sewing!
I like my pillowcase a little bit smaller than my pillow form, so, I didn't add a seam allowance so it will looks full with no empty space.
From the top to the bottom is 23".
From the left to the right is 52" .
(I double the size of my pillow, 23 x 2 = 46, plus 6-inches for the hem for envelope opening and for overlap, so, I end up 52" in length).
Fold the edges of your fabric 1/2- inch and iron flat, then fold it over again 1/2-inch and iron it to create a clean hem. Hem the edges of your fabric. This will become your envelope opening.
Fold it into the shape for your pillowcase (right face together), allowing a 4-inches overlap of fabric on the back side of your pillow. Pin the open edges and stitch straight using 1/2-inch seam allowance, and zig zag to avoid fraying.
(Note: If your pillow is smaller than my pillow you can just use 2 to 3 inches overlap of fabric on the back side of your pillow.)
Turn the pillowcase right side out, then stuff with your pillow. And you are done!
I hemmed the sides first. I folded it 1/2- inch twice and ironed over it.
Next, for the top of the curtain I folded 4-inches twice, ironed it down and stitched straight. I hemmed the bottom of my curtain the same method as the top but just by 3-inches.
Evenly spread your rings across the top part of your curtain, I used one pack (8 pcs.) for each curtain (54" wide).
Now you're basically done, all that's left is to hang up them up! Sit back, relax and admire your new curtains!
Here's what it costs me to make this project:
10 meters of fabric for $3 a meter (clearance sale), altogether was $30.
Four packages of Grommets, (was on sale for 40% off, originally price was $9.99 a pack). So, I got them for only $5.99 a pack, altogether was $23.96 for four packages.
So, $30 + $23.96 = $53.96 + tax(four curtains)
Store-bought curtains, $275.96 + tax(four curtains)
I saved at least $222.00 dollars
Yay, for saving a lot of money.
Once again, I hope you enjoy this tutorial and thank you for stopping by.
Hi, I will be showing you how to make this Crayon and Coloring Book Tote. I made this one for my son and he loves it, it's super easy to carry around and everything stays organized. Great for car trip or anywhere out... keeping your little artist busy. I made this a couple months ago. It may look hard to make but I assure you it's pretty simple.
Let's get started!
All you will need:
For the handle, you take your 9" x 4" strip of fabric. Fold your rectangles lengthwise in half and press. Unfold. Bring each of the edges toward the middle. Then again, fold in half and press, and top stitch.
Now for the pocket you first need to position your strip of Velcro, and fold your fabric in half, right faces together. Sew around, except the bottom, leave a gap for turning inside out, cut the corners (be careful of your seams!) and turn it inside out, then press.
For the pocket flap, sew on your other piece of Velcro and then place your other rectangle over top, and again right faces together, sew around, leave an opening, cut around the curve then flip it inside out, press and top stitch.
For the pockets for your crayons, take your rectangle fold it in half, right side facing each other. Sew around, leaving a space to flip it inside out, once flipped, press.
Grab your two small rectangles (13.5" x10"), fold one of the long sides of each rectangle a half an inch and sew.
Now sew your pockets to one of your small rectangles as indicated. Don't forget to add your allowances from the raw sides.
Add your flap and sew across the top of the flap.
Measure your clip and the distance around it. My clip was 1" x 4" and the distance was a half an inch from the top and 2.5 inches from the side.
Grab your other small rectangle (13.5" x 10") and draw out the measurements you just took, make sure to leave seam allowance.
Draw a line through the center right across. That is you cutting line. Then, at each end , draw a triangle from the corner line. Cut the center line until you reach the triangle and then snip into corners. Turn the fabric through the hole you just cut and out to the back. Press and top stitch around.
Now it's time for the big rectangle (20 x 13.5"). Here you can decorate it how ever you would like. Attach your handles and sew to secure . Get your two small rectangles and place them on top, right side facing each other.
Don't forget your loop (hair elastic) for your button (I almost forgot mine). Then sew around the rectangles.
Cut the four corners carefully (make sure not to cut you seams), flip it inside out, and press.
Add your button. It should look like this. Now you're done your cover!
If your binder is like mine, you will want to cover the gap on the cover, I just used cardboard paper and tape, nothing fancy.
You will need:
- Fabric of your choice (I used Home décor fabric)
- Cutting Mat, Rotary Cutter, Scissor, and Sewing Machine
- Your tablet's measurements (don't forget to add seam allowance to all your measurements)
This are the measurements for my tablet:
(I added 1/2" for seam allowance to all my measurements)
- Tablet: 10.81" x 6.81" (I rounded it off to the nearest inch, 11" x 7")
- Outer Fabric: 12" x 15"
- Lining: 12" x 8" (x2)
- Corners: 3" x 3" (x4)
- Flap: 8" x 5"
- Interfacing (outer and lining): 14.5" x 11.5" (x2)
- Interfacing (for flap): 3" x 4.5"
For my corners, I took my 3" x 3" squares and folded them in half, sewing along the bottom to make triangles.
Next, I got my lining (12" x 8")and placed two triangles at two of the corners. Then took my other piece of fabric and placed it over top, facing each other. Pin then sew.
Open and press. Place the interfacing on the back and press.
Grab your other two triangles and put them in place, and sew a quarter of an inch to secure them in place.
For the flap, I fold my 8" x 5" piece of fabric, unfold, slip in the interfacing then press. Then, place and sew your strip of Velcro (I forgot the photo).
Once you've place your Velcro, fold it inside out and sew as shown, press then top stitch.
Find the middle, between your corners, and place your flap. Pin and sew to secure.
Take your outer fabric (12" x 15"), place down your interfacing, press, then place your Velcro on the outside.
Note: if you want to add some decorations, now is the best time to do it.
Now, grab your two rectangles; outer and lining, face them together. Make sure that the flap and Velcro are on OPPOSITE sides.
Sew around, leave an opening to flip it right side out afterwards and cut your corners (make sure not to cut your seams)
Once flipped right side out, press and stitch the opening closed.